The heavens’ constellations have been an enduring source of inspiration for lovers, dreamers and creative souls everywhere. Similarly, the signs of the Western zodiac have long fascinated designers at the celebrated Parisian high jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels. A range of astrologically decorated items, including charms, bracelets, pendants, clips and cuff links, have regularly appeared in its collections over the decades, many adorned with materials including wood, diamonds, mother-of-pearl and ornamental stones.
Since 2014, the zodiac has been making its return on various Van Cleef & Arpels watches, including the acclaimed Zodiaque Lumineux series from 2018. Now they feature in a new Zodiaque jewellery collection that honours each of the 12 astrological signs in two different ways: with a selection of long necklaces encrusted with rare ornamental stones that illustrate the symbols and the elements they belong to; and, in a move that also updates much-loved Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from the past, with a group of solid yellow gold medals that also depict the various signs.How Van Cleef & Arpels made high jewellery out of the humble zip
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The 12 long necklaces showcase representations of the signs on either side, picked out in three-dimensional relief. On the front, they depict the zodiac symbol in rose gold in the foreground, offset by a background that highlights its element – earth, air, fire or water – in a different ornamental stone, each rarely used in jewellery making. The same materials and techniques adorn the necklaces’ backs, depicting in gold the astrological symbols, names and the dates to which they correspond.
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Among the earth signs, Virgo is represented by malachite with undulating motifs, Taurus by randomly chromed aventurine and Capricorn by amazonite. The materials used for the air signs echo the beauty of the night sky: lapis lazuli to represent Gemini, blue aventurine for Aquarius and shimmering gold obsidian for Libra. The fire signs are evoked with materials that suggest flames, lava and embers: iron eye for Aries, red pietersite for Sagittarius and red jasper for Leo. The water signs, meanwhile, are conjured up by materials that recall ocean depths, with blue quartz for Cancer, sodalite for Pisces and turquoise for Scorpio. Each stone is chosen for its harmonious appearance, nuances of colour, opacity and translucence, with the gold motifs initially inscribed on them in wax before being recreated in rose gold.
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Solid gold medals started to appear as part of Van Cleef & Arpels collections from the 1950s, and quickly became a runaway success, available in a wide range of sizes and shapes. Now they are making a spectacular comeback in the Zodiaque collection, as the house’s first astrologically inspired medals, produced in a new 21mm size. Like the necklaces, these yellow gold medals feature a three-dimensional depiction of the signs and dates of the zodiac on both sides.
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